We had mixed emotions riding into Europe. We felt a sense of accomplishment having made it that far… a sense of relief with the cold out of our bones… and genuine concern for our injuries. We have no dramas smiling through the rubbish that comes part and parcel with overlanding. However, a not improving injury…

We rode off the ferry at Tangier thinking to ourselves, “Wow! Africa… things are going to get tough now.” Hahaha idiots. We quickly realised that we were not in Black Africa but instead a country-sized holiday park. Not only is tourism the second largest source of foreign exchange in Morocco (the phosphate industry is the…

“Morocco is not black Africa. Mauritania is black Africa. Good luck.” These were the parting words of the Moroccan border control captain. We rolled off the asphalt onto a 3km stretch of sandy piste flanked by car wrecks. The Moroccans call it “No Man’s Land”. It’s a buffer zone administered by no country, and claimed…

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